In my planning I always thought that I will cut most of the track by train. It turned out to be the country with the most milage. So much for plans. Or how a former boss liked to phrase it:
Planning replaces chance by error
Albert Einstein
22.08.2023 – Day 36 – Stockholm
I should know, and I do, but sometimes circumstances forces us to do things we know are not good for us. I slept in a hostel. Well, I booked a hostel would be more accurate. I didn’t sleep. Thanks to the snorers 🤦
In my room slept a guy who stayed there already one month. Normally, he lives on a boat, his boat. But currently he has water in his bed. No, not the roof is leaking. The whole damn thing sank 😂
With a hangover I started my sightseeing tour, which included a trip to do the laundry. Stockholm’s old town is beautiful. And really busy. Lots of tourists (too many Germans and many Spaniards) around and shops, cafes and restaurants. However, if you manage to get out at around 8am it’s pretty much deserted. I love this feeling when nobody is there and slowly the city starts waking up.
The city served also the peak coffee price I ever experienced: 4.62 EUR for an americano. Since money was already out the window I decided to have 2 typical dishes (you see them in the pictures).
23.08.2023 – Day 37 – Stockholm to Östra Husby (52.1 km)
The first action of the day, after the breakfast obviously, was taking a train to Nyköping. No more cycling through cities for me. It is surprising though that the trains are not better prepared for bicycles. The Baltic states handle this better.
The motivation is a bit gone. Like it is time to go “home”. However, as soon I was cycling through the beautiful landscape that feeling was gone.
Sweden has several ferry crossings that are operated by the government free of charge. You can spot them by the yellow ferries.
24.08.2023 – Day 38 – Östra Husby to Kinda kommun (98.2 km)
Decided to change my route. I want to see Katthult. That means about 180 km to get there.
In between I jumped into one of several lakes that have swimming areas. While the water is cold it’s not as cold as yesterday’s Baltic Sea.
In Atvidaberg I was approached by an older man. I was surprised to learn that he is 78, cause he looked like 65. And on top, he could speak German. Sadly, I have those encounters far too rare. Maybe I am not open enough. Probably.
Today marks the first of many more to come where I put up my tent and it is explicitly forbidden. I don’t care anymore. Of course, there is the danger of getting caught and I have to be gone early in the morning. But that is all part of the excitement 🙂
25.08.2023 – Day 39 – Kinda kommun to Vimmerby (60.1 km)
So, at 5am I was up and at 6am on the bike. I usually need one hour between getting up, having stored everything away and having had a small breakfast.
Already at 10am I was at today’s destination: Vimmerby, birthplace of Astrid Lindgren. I went to her parent’s house even that the admission is really expensive and still you cannot see the house inside (part of the guided tour only). I didn’t know that the Michel von Lönneberga is named Emil in the original.
I knew that it was going to rain and it started already while in the museum. I booked an apartment and stayed there for the rest of the day.
26.08.2023 – Day 40 – Vimmerby to Oskarshamn kommun (97.5 km)
Fucking weather forecasts. That is a job everybody can do. Instead of raining the whole morning until 3pm as predicted, it started exactly when I decided to start riding: 11:15am 🙄
It rained a lot. All the way to Katthult and throughout the visit. “I was not amused” would be an understatement. After all, I did quite a detour to get here and then it is raining 🤬
This is the place of my childhood memories and in fact, I am still watching the series when it comes around Christmas every year. It’s also part of a nightmare as it is sieged by Germans.
Since I wanted to get the morning ferry tomorrow I had to do some extra miles.
27.08.2023 – Day 41 – Oskarshamn kommun to Horns Kungsgard (66.8 km)
How bloody marvelous riding when the world still sleeps and the sun is coming up. Additional incentive if that is through beautiful area.
Me and 2 others boarded the ferry at 8am. It takes about 2 hours to get to Öland, the second largest island.
My goal was not to make lots of milage today and therefore had lots of time for sightseeing. One sight was a huge campsite with animation, shopping center and whatnot. My other nightmare.
I found a lovely spot in a natural protected area. Don’t even get me started if it’s legal…
28.08.2023 – Day 42 – Horns Kungsgard to Halltorps protected area (66.5 km)
Not sure what is worse. To ride when it is raining or with head wind. I think it is having expected one thing just then to be disappointed. I expected to make lots of milage as the island is flat. But had only head wind and thus called it a day with about 66 km. I was not happy.
29.08.2023 – Day 43 – Halltorps protected area to Appleryd (80.3 km)
Another early start and still no shower. Unfortunately, the showers at the campsites are keycard accessible only.
Stinky as I was I took the ferry back to the mainland (Kalmar). I was meeting a friend there and thus spent more time. It’s a lovely city though with a beautiful water castle.
At around 2:30pm I went on my way again but with even less motivation. I guess my time on the road comes to an end. And that is fine.
30.08.2023 – Day 44 – Appleryd to Karlshamns kommun (123.3 km)
2nd flat tire on this trip (plus the casing issue). But 30 minutes later I was on my way. Kristianopels turned out to be a lovely little village. The café was right at the sea and the coffee was actually quite good. It’s common here that you can refill your coffee. Well, as long as you take the normal, already prepared one and not from the machine.
I eat too much sweet stuff and due to that I still feel overweight. Every time I am telling myself “no more” just to stand in front of the display saying “and that caramel cheesecake please” 😂
Quite often I see a lowered car that drives really slow and on the back they have a warning triangle. I mean, how do you navigate with those cars through the winter? I am not sure if it is only supervised driving or, which I think is more true, a way for kids to get to school in remote areas. What is your thought?
Did you see the milage for today? Look again. That’s right, over 120 km. It really went well today and there was no point of stopping early since everything was still wet. And, rain predicted for tomorrow. So, better get some milage done today. Done!
I pitched my tent in the forest. Have I mentioned that I do not like to be alone in the forest at night? 😅
31.08.2023 – Day 45 – Karlshamns kommun to Malmö (88.9 km)
It was a short night and not only due to my fears 😉 I wanted to get as much milage done before it rained. Didn’t succeed as just 30 minutes after starting it rained already.
On my way to Kristianstad I passed the 3,000 km mark. What an achievement! I was really happy. Just as a comparison, the other guy I met made about 2,400 km in 8 weeks. And I am just at the beginning of my 7th week. You could argue that he sees more and enjoys it more. Maybe, but styles are different and that is OK. On the other hand, having more rest days might ensure that my legs are not hurting every day 😀
That’s it with Sweden…cycle-wise. I took the train to Malmö and within an hour I was there.
I congratulated myself with a glass of wine. An expensive celebration in Scandinavia 😉
01.09.2023 – Day 46 – Malmö
I took it easy sightessing Malmö. I really needed a rest day after 200 km the last 2 days. Spent more time on sipping wine and eating 😀
02.09.2023 – Day 47 – Malmö to Copenhagen
Early riser? Not when I have a bed. Thus, I only got to the train at 9:15am. There are lots of trains connecting Malmö with Copenhagen via the Öresond bridge. Next stop: Denmark!
I really love the wooden houses of Sweden. If I have to put a word on it they make it feel warm and cozy. The lawns are big and in impeccable state. Alas, one could also think they are prissy neighborhoods, where you get looked at if you don’t mow your lawn every week. No idea!
Another interesting thing is that I saw hardly any police. Especially outside of Stockholm. It feels all very safe. Once you know that the biggest crimes are done by people in suits, it makes sense 😂
In my last post I wrote about motivation. A short video I saw in between makes me want to clarify this. Motivation is (or can be) a flickering thing. One day it’s there, the other not. What brings me (and anybody) through is discipline (and/or determination). Get up, do something. In my case, pedal 🙂
Love,
Matthias