The days leading up to my latest adventure in Torres del Paine were full of frustration.
After leaving Pucón I decided, quite spontaneously, to go to Valdivia. I wanted to see the coast. On the first day I took the bus to the coastal village of Niebla and we were passing by a brewery and I thought to myself that this would have been also an option for a nice evening. In that moment the bus broke down and came to a stop literally at the entrance to the cervecería Kunstmann. Off I went and was greeted with Bavarian music, good beer and decent food 🙂
I stood a night more in town and secured a place at a beach…unofficially. It was a great night and I liked hearing the clash of the waves. Although I was not completely alone it felt like real camping.
My heart led me into the Parque Nacional Puyehue, which is named after a vulcano that erupted some decades ago. The lady at the reception told me that it is a 2 day hike to get up and back but I only had one. Then her colleague stopped by and told me in German that one can do it in one day, it’s just a long one (10 – 12 hours). And a thought was born.
The campsite itself reminded me of the national parks in the US. I loved it there.
I started the hike at about 7:30 am and after somebody hurrying after me so that I pay the entrance fee of the trail (10.000 CLP) I was on my way. The climb itself was strenuous and not great. But worse were the flies. At least I thought they were flies, just triple the size of the ones in Germany. But those motherfuckers also sucked my blood. No fun hiking with 10 to 20 of those things swirling around me. Anyhow, I got out…and alive that is!
After the refuge, where you can spend the night, ends the tree line and the sights become spectacular. I mean, one can see so many vulcanos from there. But what really blew my mind was when I reached the top of the vulcano and looked over the rim. Wow, the crater was massive and beautiful. Do you agree? Imagine the blast!
Next step was Puerto Montt, the gateway to the Carretera Austral and Chiloé Island. I want to do both. But my misery started there. While on my drive to Puyehue I found cars but wanted to book it when coming back. Then there were none to be found. I checked everything and nothing came up. I was broken and frustrated. It is the worst feeling for me not having any options and feeling stuck.
But then new ideas and plans came up and that improves my mood/lookout significantly. One guy on Facebook wants to sell his car and why not buying it? Or one campervan rental company that told me they have a car but in Punta Arenas, so driving back via Argentina. And Rob’s friend offered me her car. So, suddenly I had 3 options. Juhuu! (Remember that I am not good in making decisions though 😉 )
But life can punch you in the guts. The rental car was not available anymore, the guy selling the car was responding very slow and even that the car from Rob’s friend would have been expensive to rent, no ferries were available. I mean none. I looked at the Carretera Austral and any other ship leaving that damn port. All booked out until nearly end of February. Due to many land boarders still closed and the holiday season in full bloom every available space is taken. So what now? Cry about it? Yes, but then move on because it might release the emotion but won’t help me.
A new idea was formed. Flying to Puerto Natales and doing the O-Trek in the Parque Nacional del Torres. So, I went hunting for the campsites, which are run by 2 different companies (plus the ones from the government but they are in repairs this season). Both websites were open and I had the reservation. But when I went to the payment section it failed. Beware, of course, only one of them failed. The other one I had proceeded already and payed. Great, that means I cannot do it and wasted 140 USD. And I booked the flight also already (yes, you guessed it…also accommodation). Fuck Fuck Fuck!!! (If there would be an emoticon with rolling eyes while slapping its face…this would be the space to put it in)
On Saturday I was pondering back and forth but in the end I flew down there. Of course, nothing can be solved on a Saturday and I felt stranded. Stranded at a cold and rainy airport in a faraway land.
I didn’t give up and strolled through town.
Also I didn’t give up on the trek, at least not completely, I had to adapt because the O-Trek was booked out. But I could book the W-Trek and this is what I did. This is only 4 days worth of trekking instead of 8.
Different from most hikers I took the catamaran (about 80 USD) from the Hotel Grey to the Campground Grey, which overlooks the same-named glacier. It is a bit of a sad sight, when you realize how far the glacier has retreated already just recently. But still impressive in all other ways.
So, the boat spit me out and I was on my way. Well, more or less. I brought food to cook and all the kitchen stuff. After an easy 15 km hike with beautiful views over the glacier and the only sound being the wind (or my thoughts) I asked at the reception of the campsite Grande Paine and they smiled but said no to my futuristic wood burner.
(where is that freaking emoticon?)
I had a nagging sensation before but now it was too late of course. That meant I brought 3 – 5 kilos of waste with me. Splendid!
Anyhow, over the course of the next days I could realize that I had so much extra stuff (bread, sausage, cheese, eggs, fruits, sweets and CHOCOLATE!), which was more than enough to get me through the hikes without the need to cook anything. Hopefully I will be smarter next time (I think I had this thought already the last 3 times).
When pitching the tents you have to keep the wind in mind. It blows constantly and generally from West to East. So, find a shelter! One campground (Frances) in between had me pitch my tent on raised platforms to level the ground.
Day 2 lead from Grande Paine to the campground Frances over 24 km of little ups and downs (in general, the W trek is quite flat). In between you can leave your bigger backpack in one place and make it up to the miradores (viewpoints) Frances and Britannica.
The third day was my highlight. I dashed some extra weight and thus the backpack felt lighter. And it was a glorious day. During the whole trek I had sunshine, something that is very unusual that long here. And that day was an easy hike (15 km) with beautiful views over the lakes. One saw me jumping into it. How refreshing! 😀
During the last night I hardly slept. I wanted to get out at 1am in order to see the sunrise reflected off the Torres. But the noise in the camp was so loud that I couldn’t fall asleep. I think I had no more than 2 hours and not even uninterrupted.
Anyhow, the climb without the backpack was easy and while walking I saw a strange sight. Lights, like stars, moving in formation and passing over me…in a straight line. Later I heard those are satellites. It was eerie.
1.5 hours freezing in the cold night later and the sun came up. The rest of the afternoon I stayed in the camp as it was too hot to walk and not really feasible. My bus took me back at 7pm to Puerto Natales.
You can see on the selfies how my mood improved just hiking in this stunning surroundings and great weather.
After another night in the street dog rotten town I took a bus to Punta Arenas. Punta Arenas is a town at the street of Magallanes. What kind of adventures were these guys!
During the ride I talked with a Chilean guy and he told me that the normal working week has 45 hours here and only 3 weeks of vacation. I was shocked. When I tell that I am not working anymore then it is always surprising to the others. Something I have to get used to…or grow old and people will feel it is normal 😉
Before I leave Chile maybe a word to how they are handling Corona (besides having one of the highest vaccination rates worldwide). I told you already that you have to make another PCR-Test once crossing any borders into Chile. Then, you have to report your health 10 days via a website. People here have to wear masks (mostly surgical ones) everywhere. It is really strange seeing them outside and more and more I refuse to wear them. Come on, what should happen when you are in the fresh air?
In order to travel around, or also go to a restaurant, one needs a pase de movilidad. Other than that, life is more free than on Germany right now.
For me, I have to find a way to, somehow, cross the border to Ushuaia (Argentina) on road. There are no busses at the moment since the border just opened end of last year. Maybe hitchhiking? Keep the fingers crossed! And no more frustration por favor…
Love,
Matthias