The Latvian drivers tangibly drove a bit more conscious of bike riders. Not that it was great riding along busy roads but at least not with the same feelings as in Lithuania.
02.08.2023 – Day 16 – Latvian border to Liepaja (72.8 km)
Already at 1pm I had about 70 km (together with the part to the Latvian border from Klaipėda) and it wasn’t time to rest yet. So, I moved on towards Liepaja. In the town itself I didn’t want to stay. But I also couldn’t get much farther since I had already about 100 km. Shortly afterwards I saw an artillery battery, which was blown up around WWI. Quite an interesting site and since it was about to rain I decided to sleep in one of the abandoned bunkers.
03.08.2023 – Day 17 – Liepaja to Pavilosta (48.5 km)
However, despite the forecasts it didn’t rain during the night and I could have left dry in the morning if I would have left early. I didn’t and at 9am it rained. At least I got my blog post done 🙄
The path wasn’t great at all today. Mostly alongside busy road with not many great sights. But at least there was rain.
Then in Pavilosta I didn’t want to go on. The village is directly at the sea and since the sun came out I wanted to dip a toe into the Baltic Sea. Oh dear, this is cold 🤏
04.08.2023 – Day 18 – Pavilosta to Renda (94.9 km)
In the morning I was still in high spirits. But just a few kilometers down the road I saw another great spot for tents directly at the sea. Don’t know if it was this or something else but my mood went down and didn’t recover until after Riga (I do hope it is more up now but I am not so sure 😉 ).
What I struggled with, now that I was in a low mood already, was that I felt I have nobody really very very close in my life. I know I have dear friends but I need to find a new authorized representative in case something happens to me, since my current one cannot handle it now or anymore. And I don’t really know who… Can I burden yet another friend with this? I already have somebody from my “family” in it but do I want to give him the sole “power”. I struggled with this because it reveals how lonely my life is. Have I set my priorities wrong in the past (and present?)? And you know what the good thing is about life? Everything changes constantly. Also those feelings.
I left the coast behind and followed the castle road towards Riga. There are several castles in good and not so good shape.
I didn’t expect anything special on this part of the trip but was blown away by the old town of Kuldiga. Really beautiful and after a good lunch I “discovered” that the town hold Europe’s widest waterfall. Behold, I thought it a joke seeing it but hey, if it is in the internet it has to be true, no? 😏
05.08.2023 – Day 19 – Renda to Klapkalnciems (89.8 km)
I pitched my tent close to a house in a forest but hidden from it. I did not anticipate to be awaken at 3am by loud music. I had to blink twice to realize it was not a dream 😅
Needless to say I left very early in the morning…not to be discovered. Thus, very early in the day I had already quite some milage behind me. However, I managed to hit my knee on my bike to make the next few days more interesting 🤦
I was surprised as I suddenly reached the sea again. You must think that I don’t plan my day. And I don’t. Just rudimentary. I rather let come what comes and the beauty with not being bound to a hotel or campsite is that I can sleep were I fall down. This I did here again, I slept along the beach. Although, it is not allowed officially.
06.08.2023 – Day 20 – Klapkalnciems to Riga (57.5 km)
It rained lightly in the morning and so I stayed in. Later, I took the opportunity reading at the beach. What a luxury!
The 50 km towards Riga felt endless. I don’t know why I bother with riding into a capital anymore. It’s just boring. I hope I remember next time to take the train.
Arriving in Riga in the early evening I made sure not to get to the hotel right away but checked out the city and some bars. Otherwise, I wouldn’t get out from the apartment anymore.
07.08.2023 – Day 21 – Riga
A bit disappointed by the apartment. It is tiny and my clothes smelled worse than before using the washing machine. When I book a hotel/apartment then I check to have a washing machine in order to get the stinking bike clothes decent again.
Somehow, it wasn’t that easy finding a place for breakfast. And in one coffee shop I managed to get the most expensive espresso ever: 3.23 EUR 🤦
For 9 EUR you get a fantastic panoramic view of the city from the tower of the St. Peter church.
I strolled through Riga, also called the pearl of the Baltic, but by 2pm it started raining, which didn’t stop until the next morning. It is really a beautiful old town and as I could see from the evening before has quite a nightlife.
I treated myself to a massage. This time I chose a Thai one again. And boy, this one was really good. Hopefully, I will crank some milage the next days.
08.08.2023 – Day 22 – Riga to Gauja (42.7 km)
Apparently, the rain was accompanied by some heavy wind as I saw lots of trees fallen down and leaves all over the paths.
Rained again today. Somehow, after having said a week or so ago that I am so happy I have good weather it changed. Great!
Did I say cranking? Ha! No motivation whatsoever. After just 40 km I called it a day after seeing a beautiful lake. I got really angry once it rained and I wasn’t ready with the tent yet. I was soaked when it was up at last.
09.08.2023 – Day 23 – Gauja to Veczemju klintis (70 km)
I have no idea how Baron Münchhausen is related to Latvia but I did see a big mug with his counterfeit.
One forecast said it is going to rain at 11 am, the other 1 hour later. So, I always rode with worry where I might be when it hits. At 11am they changed to 12pm and 1pm respectively. And you know what? It didn’t rain until 6pm in the afternoon. The lesson I learned today was that it makes no sense to worry about something in the future, even if others say it will be so. There is always the chance that it will be completely different (actually, it’s most likely).
Even after 70 km I had to convince myself that it is OK to stop. I have some pressure to succeed. Succeed in what? In the goals I set myself? Why? Just fucking relax Matthias!
The spot I found was marvelous with a great view over the sea and after the rain it was a beautiful evening/sunset.
10.08.2023 – Day 24 – Veczemju klintis to Estonian border (35.4 km)
For the first time I talked with another bike traveler. And of course, German. Damn, his bike looked nice. But he had much more panniers than I and the bike alone weights 20 kg. I am happy with my choice 🤭
We rode a bit together and shared a meal but then went our separate ways again. But it did feel good to lose the sense of being alone for some time.
And then I was at the Estonian border. I wonder what wonders it beholds for me.
What else is noteworthy about Latvia? Here, as anywhere else in the Baltic states, they drive big cars. In fact, the same big cars I can see anywhere else in western Europe. Maybe even more. I assume it is even more a status symbol here than e.g. in Germany. Why do we need this? To impress people we don’t even like?
Not sure if I stated this before. My goal is about 80 km per day. But I’m a bit disappointed about my performance. I mean, last year I did 100 km with much more altitude (and attitude 😏). And here it’s flat and I struggle with 80. From the time I get up to where I stop for the day it’s roughly 10 km per hour. Maybe too many stops. Once I cycle the average is between 15 and 20 km/h, depending on road, wind and myself.
Love,
Matthias