Estonia, for me, the best experience of the 3 Baltic states. Why? It is sparsely populated and I really enjoyed the landscapes I saw. Another time I would have stayed longer but not 6 weeks as a fellow bikepacker family did. Maybe I come back and do the east together with St. Petersburg…once the dust settles.
10.08.2023 – Day 24 – Estonian border to Piirumi (39.4 km)
The part after the border was just lovely. Beautiful houses along a side street, with scarcely cars. This way biking is fun. RMK (Estonian forest management) has quite some campsites, also here, which are free and with basic facilities (usually a dry toilet and picnic tables). Of course, the one I saw was still to early for me. Damn, ambition.
I went on to the next one just to realize at arrival that it is not allowed to camp and some Germans with their campervan and screaming brats were already there. Anyhow, I setup tent. It’s getting cold early and I went inside soon.
11.08.2023 – Day 25 – Piirumi to Matsiranna (93.4 km)
Today’s route let through Pärnu. Yet another town with a beautiful old part.
In order to stay within the planned time frame I wanted to go inland. However, after having talked with the German bike traveler I’m going to continue on the iron curtain trail (coastal path). This meant that I won’t be home for the church consecration festival (so much shorter in Bavarian: Kirwa) in the village I grew up. After that decision I felt a little bit relaxed as it gives me more time (to enjoy the country).
I wanted to camp at an official RMK site and that meant to pedal over 90 km. What did I find when I arrived? All the sites were taken and I had to camp on private land. That would have been OK and even the marooning ants. But then 4 Estonians arrived and partied all night long. I do not understand this. How can people be so egoistic? And then leave their plastic garbage? Cunts!
12.08.2023 – Day 26 – Matsiranna to Kasari (64.6 km)
I am not feeling well health-wise. It’s only a small cold and comes with a running nose that is faster than I can pedal. Even now, being in Finland already, it still persists 🤦
In Lihula I found a cool spot to have a coffee. I followed a sign “Kohvik” and what the lady said is that it is traditional in Estonia to just set up a place for an open coffee. This one was in an antique barn.
I really wanted a place to wash myself and found a nice spot along a river. Water was cold and I only went in shortly not to get even worse with cold. And then the fun began! A group of locals arrived, already drunk, and swam and drunk more. Needless to say, I had to join, they made me to 😇 Even with zero common language, I had fun (those were one of it the fews that didn’t speak English).
13.08.2023 – Day 27 – Kasari to Haapsalu (51.1 km)
I was OK with a late start. In fact, my tent was dripping and needed to dry (and no, it was not because of the alcohol 😏). When I woke up during the night I saw mist above the lawn, the milky-way above and a shooting star ❤️
After 45 km I arrived in Haapsalu and a lunch later my motivation was in the basement. Since my batteries (literally and figuratively) were empty anyway, I decided to get them charged in an apartment.
Unfortunately (?), I went to the apartment at 4pm already and didn’t get out anymore. Maybe I just needed the rest.
14.08.2023 – Day 28 – Haapsalu to Alliklepa (64.2 km)
This northern part was one of the best to cycle through. Scarcely any people or cars and often close to the sea. In fact, I wild camped at the sea (ilegally of course) and went for a swim. Not for long though, I saw many jellyfishes and didn’t felt comfortable.
I did collect some mushrooms and with the leftovers from breakfast had a delicious dinner. How glad I am that I didn’t send back the stove!
15.08.2023 – Day 29 – Alliklepa to Tallinn (47.2 km)
Even before starting the day I made the decision already to take the train to Tallinn. Of course, my ambition kept questioning my decision but when I hit the 2,000 km mark I felt a sense of achievement and ready for some treat.
The train from Paldiski takes just 1 hour and costs about 5 EUR (including the bike).
16.08.2023 – Day 30 – Tallinn
Tallinn blows my mind. I feel overwhelmed by the many old buildings and the stunning old town. Maybe it is really called the Rome of the north but in the end I cannot get my head around all the bulidngs I saw. Tallinn was a Hanse city in the medieval times and the richness still shows. I mean, I had a beer in a restaurant called Olde Hansa and felt like I traveled back in time. I dare to say this city is a must-see!
The times where I really feel lonely are in the cities, especially at night. When I look around it feels like everybody is with somebody and it’s just me on my own. It would be cool to have a dear one share a good dinner with or the usual 1, 2, 3 drinks in a bar 😉 Since I don’t, I usually go back to the hotel early. Out in the nature I seldom have this feeling. I don’t date to go as far as saying I feel connected to nature but content.
17.08.2023 – Day 31 – Tallinn to Helsinki
I had to get up very early in order to reach the ferry to Helsinki leaving at 7am. Then I discovered that the kitchen of the hostel was locked and nobody to be called. I had to leave all my food behind and yes, I was a little bit pissed off 😉
If you think now I am flying due to less weight…you are wrong 😅
The ferry takes only 2.5 hrs and is really not that expensive (24 EUR). Breakfast buffet was good and I stuffed myself to the brim.
What else is noteworthy about Estonia? Water wells are still much more in use here and in all the other Baltic states than in Germany for example. Whomever I talked to, or nearly everyone, speaks really good English. It’s incredible and makes traveling so much easier.
Love,
Matthias