Beyond the end of the world

I have some new stories to share 🙂 I spent several days in Punta Arenas. More than this place is worth it but I had not much choice.

I was looking into different options and it seems that I am always arriving on weekends at places where not much can be done. My options were to go to Puerto Williams or make my way to the border.
The ferry to Puerto Williams was booked out. Then I tried to find a PCR test station on Saturday. I found two but none of them had tests available anymore. That meant that I cannot go to the border either. Argentina has the same restrictions as most countries (PCR test max. 72 hours before arrival).
After a 1.5 days struggling with the payment part of the DAP website I was finally able to book a flight. So, off I went to Puerto Williams, the most southern city of the world and self-proclaimed “end of the world”.

I had zero planned so when I got off the plane I was surprised that there is no (public) transportation into the town and I did not want to walk it. One lady said that I could try hitchhiking and I might get lucky. The funny thing was that I arrived earlier at the hostel than she!
I only dropped my small backpack there because I wanted to start the hike right away. Reading this blog post got me hooked and I wanted to do the same. Which meant taking the Lago Windhond trek south and then make my way back to the Dientes de Navarino trek via Monte Bettineli. It should be around 6 days worth of hiking.

Day 1

Beforehand, one needs to register with the police. And then I was off. The day lulled me with sunshine and only the occasional spray of rain. OK, I had to cross a shaggy bridge but otherwise the beginning was great. However, after some time it started to become more challenging. The path changed into marshland and I was trying to avoid getting the feet totally sucked wet and while constantly looking for the answer to the question: Where the fuck is the trek? The markers are rare and thus footpaths stream of in different directions and you end up searching again for the right track. Also, I had to do a lot of climbing over fallen trees, crawling beneath them (something I really don’t like) and then, again, getting back to the “right” trek.
But, it was a good day and I found a nice place to pitch my tent. Straight ahead I could see a waterfall and to my right even more mountains. The sun was still shining as I was preparing dinner. I did everything right because when I got into the tent, earlier than you would think, it started to rain.

Day 2

That night I froze my ass off. And I didn’t know why. Before going on this trip I switched sleeping bags for the bigger, heavier and supposedly warmer one. Looking outside in the morning I realized what it was. It snowed! The mountains surrounding me were covered in light snow.
I stayed in the tent all morning as it continued to rain and snow and I didn’t want to get out there. Midday it cleared and off I went. I didn’t get far…before rain came again. But worse was making my way through the marshland and up a hill with the same as yesterday. Trees, trees and more trees. Then hail. WTF! I knew the remains of a shelter are just 1 km away but I didn’t want to go a meter anymore. I was freezing, wet and miserable. I put up my tent on what seemed to be the dryest spot around and hoped to get warm once I am inside. Not really 😉
I lost hope that I will be able to make the whole circuit. In fact, I was scared that I won’t make it out at all. That day I did only 5 km.

Day 3

Day 3 already and just 13 km so far. Of a trek that is supposed between 65 and 75 km :-O
The old shelter was really around the corner. The day started, trek-wise, how the last ones were. But once I got closer to the lake I stepped out of the trees and into open marshland. And there it was surprisingly easy to walk. Just find the right moss plant and you walk on solid ground. I reached the lake at around 5 pm and was super-happy.
Now let’s catch a fish! OK, I was not utterly convinced that it would work out but I had fun giving it a try. And it is really a great feeling standing at that lake and knowing that just beyond is Antarctica. Plus, this will be the most southern point I will ever be (on a trek).
You can imagine my shock when suddenly 2 other groups arrived. So there are other crazy people like me out there. One of them was Bavarian and he had fishing rods with him…and I got my fish! We had a great night together sharing drinks and food while sitting around the fire. Not really! The guy went to bed and I ate the fish myself. But I enjoyed my company 😀
I decided to sleep in the shelter this night even though it looked quite worn. I figured it couldn’t be worse than in my tent. And truth be told, I slept really good and quite warm.

Day 4

In the morning of the 4th day (Thursday) I realized that I might still have a chance of doing the whole circuit. Given that the way is similar to what it was the day before.
After letting the morning rain pass I started after the French couple. It lead the same way back over the open marshland and then I had to fork left, which meant to cross a small river. Off with the shoes and into the water. What sounds colder than it really is.
Next hour or so had me stumbling up the sharp hill through woods and at times I asked myself: “Why are you doing this? You could use this energy to build a house, renovate an apartment, convert a car”. And then this thought passed again 😉
Suddenly the vegetation ended. The next part went over rocky slopes, sometimes up quite steep but with views that were just breathtaking. At times I nearly didn’t move forward because I was constantly looking back over the bay of Windhond and the smaller lakes to my left. Amazing!
Today I connected with the Dientes de Navarino trek and just shortly before I decided that I give it a try to finish it clockwise as planned. Shortly after, my feet felt sore and the campsite that didn’t look so great in the passing now looked just right. This was day 2 out of a total of 3 or 4 days of wet shoes, socks and feet.
I stood a long time looking over the lake while slowly the fog came in and put a blanked over the landscape reaching its peak later that night.

Day 5

Friday morning greeted me with sunshine! What is going on? Equipped with high spirits I started into this day. My plan was to make this a long day in order to feel less pressure on the last. Yes, also today it rained occasionally but that seems to be normal here. Most of the day I had a perfect view towards the los dientes mountains.
Me, being competitive, I made sure that no one else is overtaking me. I also wanted to take the last pass (paso Virginia) but something made me stop. I don’t know if it was the tiredness, the view or the top weather. In any case, I stopped at 4:30 pm and called it a day. It was a really warm evening and I just lay there, reading and looking over this amazing landscape.
There is something magical about preparing your dinner over wood fire, in complete solitude and stunning views. Knowing that you just had an amazing day in nature.

Day 6

Last day! I can’t believe it! Just a climb over the pass and then an easy way down to the road and if luck is with me hitchhike back to town.
First, I took my time for breakfast this time. The climb up to the pass was not so easy and you will find a picture that outlines the puddles all around. How to avoid that?
Down from the pass lead a steep path but you can slide it down and that is fun. At the bottom I realized that my hiking boots are not looking that great anymore. I hope the hole is not getting even bigger during this trip.
Little did I know that the way further down would be strenuous. A couple of years back an avalanche must have gone through most parts of this side of the island and again it was me against trees…and the trail markers.
Shortly after midday I arrived at the road and guess what? It started raining. First lightly and I didn’t mind that the first 2 cars didn’t want to take me along. I actually enjoyed that easy stroll along the coast. Then 2 youngsters in their truck stopped and gave me a ride. Thankfully, because it started to rain more and I was really happy being in the hostel and looking at the downpour outside 😀

Here the trek in its complete glory:

What I realized during this trek is that I like to worry. Not really “like” but I do it too much. Especially, since in the end it works out just fine. But me (or my mind) always finds something to worry about (at the moment it would be how the immigration to Argentina will go). I haven’t found the switch-off button yet…

Besides that, I know my equipment is not right for this place. I am not sure if it is the combination of lightweight tent, sleeping mattress and/or bag. But I have a feeling that the mattress is quite cold and since the sleeping bag is 20 years old already there is not much goose down left. Time to do something about this.

Every last Sunday of the month there is a free ferry that takes you somewhere. I really mean “somewhere” because I had no idea where it goes to. And in the morning I was not really up to it. The hangover from the bottle of wine was surely not helping. But still, I jumped (limped) out of bed and went to the port. Once we arrived I realized where we headed to…el pueblo más austral del mundo (the most southern village of the world): Puerto Toro

My thoughts find its way on paper (OK OK screen) while I ride the ferry back to Punta Arenas. I was really looking forward to this part. 30 hours of just relaxing and seeing the landscape pass by. Hey, and plenty of time to worry about immigration 😀

Leave some comments. Always happy to read them!

Love,
Matthias