After crossing the border to Guatemala I jumped into the waiting mini bus and we left for Puerto Barrios. The first time I saw the sea while being in Guatemala. But not for long…
After some delicious shrimp, I took the next boat (a common means of transportation around here) and within a short ride arrived in Lívingston. Laid back my ass. Another confusing description by the author, while I tried not to be run over by Tuktuks in the small street. As you can see, I managed 😁
The next morning, I left to Rio Dulce via the river of the same name. In the beginning, it was really beautiful as the river is narrow and goes between a canyon, which was also stage for the latest Tarzan movie. But then it opened up to a broad lake. Still nice, but not as spectacular…as the ride was advertised 🙄
The rest of the day I spent looking out over the river and sipping coffee. I should have planned my next ride. I thought it’s really easy to get from Rio Dulce to Lanquín and that there are many shuttle agencies. I was very wrong. I canceled the reservation for the 2nd night and checked with a minibus driver how to get there with regular (shared) buses. The first one told me that nearly every hour one leaves but I have to switch buses several times. No problem! Relaxed, I enjoyed my breakfast, packed my things, just to be told by the next driver that for today none are leaving anymore from the next town. Nevertheless, I took the 1,5 hours ride to El Estor and just as I was accepting the situation, a guy at the destination told me that it’s posible to go if I take his bus now. So, I did.
Next stop: Teleman.
After a short lunch in a typical restaurant (comedor), I took the bus to Coban. We drove through some beautiful landscapes. Shortly before Coban we had to change to another bus and everybody was running out to get into it (and a seat). Since I had my backpack on the roof, I was standing…more or less holding onto the door in order not to fall out 😅
My intention was to sleep in Coban. However, the bus terminal is outside of the city and since one guy approached me that his bus is going to Lanquín, I decided to head straight out. In Coban itself, we switched to the next bus. All in all, I rode 10 hours in 7 different buses 🙈😁
The hostel at Semuc Champey provides 2 free rides per day. One at 9am, the other at 6pm. I really needed a break and stayed in Lanquín until late afternoon. There is not much to see or do however.
My hostel was directly at the entrance to the park, which made it rather convenient. After we decided that my percentage calculation is correct, I was finally able to check-in 😎
I met an American family of four, who left the US 4 years ago and travel since then. They seem to stay couple of months in one country, work during the week and explore it on weekends/breaks. I found it amazing. There are so many ways one can escape the matrix, once you start thinking outside the box.
But, what I really came for are the pools that make Semuc Champey so famous. Hard to imagine that while you are swimming in them, the Cahoban river flows right under you.
Glad that I had 2 days as on the 2nd the sun came out 😎
There are lots of possibilities to jump and I realize that I have lots of fears. Sometimes, I can overcome them, and other times, I just let it go. Like when rock sticks out beneath the drop, I rather let others do that.
On top of that, I found it liberating to have no internet for 3 days. I tried that many times at home as well, but never really succeeded. So, if you don’t hear from me some time, I am either dead or succeeded 😜
Even after taking a shuttle to get to El Remate (my Basecamp for exploring Tikal), it still took 10 hours to arrive. Lots of time to read though.
I have seen several beautiful sunsets over the lake but the first one was the best. See for yourself 😎
I really looked forward to see Tikal. I had the feeling that the last days built up to this event. I didn’t know what will await me, but I thought it will be something extraordinary.
A collective minibus left at 5:30am the next morning. I was the only foreigner, together with many guides. Around 17 km before the ruins you have to pass the entrance gate, where you have to buy the ticket, if you didn’t buy them online. I didn’t, and had to wait in line. The driver came to my rescue, convinced a guard and I was next in line…smirking 🤭
Like that, I was quite early at the ruins and first went to the Grand Plaza. I was not impressed. Yes, they are impressive but I think I built too many expectations that it was impossible to fulfill them. Which surely, you have experienced as well. Nothing else to do than put yourself together and walk the ruins 😉 Some views over the jungle are amazing, because at the same time you see the temples peaking out of them. I really went everywhere, also where not many tourists go. By the end of the day, I went back to the Grand Plaza and took a view towards the Temple de Jaguar…and I was blown away. It is the light! In the morning the temple was in the shade, but now, fully illuminated, it was breathtaking. I was happy for sticking around and coming back here.
Actually, I went a 2nd time to Tikal but that was too much repetition. I wanted a guide but luck had it that there was none 🙄
I find it hard to sleep in any Central American country. There is always a lot of noise around. Either, it’s dogs barking, roosters crow (at 3:30am? WTF!) or plain traffic. Sure, there are speedbumps. But they only encourage the drivers to push the pedal down even more afterwards 🤦
If you ever been to any Central or South American country, then you know that the level of noise is just in another dimension. I mean, I see stores with speakers outside, that are desperately crying for their owner to turn it down a notch. But that’s the life here. I don’t think that would be for me though. I rather be up in one of those mountains, growing coffee and selling it to tourists 🤣
I have seen my travels as more of a selfish act. It’s what I want to do. And I don’t think that is a bad thing. Not at all. Especially, since I don’t hurt anybody by it and they bring me joy. But a friend of mine helped me to see a different perspective. Me, spending time and money here, is not only for my joy, but in doing so, I also give my money to the people here. Sometimes more direct, sometimes only to support the economy. Of course, there are also negative impacts by tourism. I know!
I met my travel companion for the next 2 weeks and together we will explore Belize before flying back from Guatemala city on the 8th of March. So, you can expect at least another post 😉
The drive to the border was fun already. Being a Sunday I was wondering if we are going to make it. However, after arriving at the intersection, I called out to a pickup driver with a cage “Vas a Melchor”, he nodded and we climbed on the bed. How fucking easy. And he didn’t even wanted money at the end. Needless to say, I gave him some 🍺 money 😉
Love,
Matthias